What Color Sport Coat Should I Buy
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On the formality scale, the blazer resides just below the suit jacket and just above the sports jacket, but can be dressed up or down to encompass a wide variety of styles and dress codes. While blazers come in various colors, the most traditional is navy blue. Sharp and masculine, a navy blazer can be worn year-round and goes with just about everything.
If you are just getting into men's style I suggest you keep the suit together and not wear the sports jacket with different colored trousers or jeans. This is the best approach for you to take to avoid the risk of looking out of place or even worse, not knowing what you are doing.
The first type of sports jacket is called the core piece. Rather than an actual sports jacket, this is normally a blazer. There are a few key differences between the two. Firstly, a blazer does not have a pattern to it. Texture in the weave of the fabric is fine but there should be no definite pattern. Secondly, many blazers have metal buttons. This distinguishes it from a sports jacket and demonstrates you are not wearing a suit jacket with an off-color pant. Lastly, blazers generally have less structure to them than suits do, however, they are not an unstructured/soft shoulder jacket.
There are three different jackets you should have the fall under this umbrella. The modern man's wardrobe should contain at least one conservative jacket in the main three color tones - a grey, a blue, and a brown. The important element of these jackets is to have some pattern and color without it being too bold or restrictive. This is a bit of an nondescript definition. Yet, this allows you more creative freedom and flexibility in selecting these pieces.
Visit your local bespoke tailor where you can pick some unique elements of your jacket. Go with peak lapels, a ticket pocket, or off-color button holes to personalize your jacket and make it one-of-a-kind. Remember, this is the jacket for weddings, christmas parties, and cocktail parties. It should stand out and be something that is remembered without being audacious.
The sports jacket was actually first viewed as a luxurious item, as most men could only afford a traditional suit, rather than one that had to be worn with different colored trousers. Over time, as clothing became more affordable, the sports jacket became known less as a jacket for shooting and more as a staple of sharp, casual style.
Fabrics used for the sports coat can overlap the blazer and suit jacket. However, there are many that are unique and have distinctive patterns (click here for a quick infographic tutorial on fabric patterns). The most common fabrics are:
In the era of Austen and Downton Abbey, a sports coat, often known as a sports jacket also, is what fashionable men would wear in the less formal countryside, when they still wanted to look fabulous but skip the formality of a business meeting, visit, or party. In particular, the iconic red coat from the fox hunting set was a sport coat. This heavy, but practical, style was then worked over by Italian tailors to create something lighter and more versatile men could wear almost anywhere and still look stylish, yet less formal.
Remember that blazers are, basically, the middle ground between sport coats and suit jackets. This means that making them as versatile as possible is in your best interests, especially when starting your blazer collection. You can never go wrong with a crisp, classic, navy. It will pair well with semi-formal pants for events like daytime weddings. It also transitions just as easily into a casual look over jeans.
A suit jacket is usually made from superior fabrics to sport coats and blazers. Not because the others are inferior items in any way, but rather because the suit jacket, as part of a full suit, is designed for a different kind of wear. High-quality worsted wool is the most common suit jacket fabric, but you get luxury versions like mohair and even silk. Twill, gabardine, and corduroy are more unusual options.
In general, a traditional blazer is a great choice for business environments, formal functions (like weddings), and night events. If a suit could still be worn without looking too out of place, a blazer is the best bet. Sport coats will take you through day-to-day life, casual events, and day events. Wear a blazer to a dinner date and a sport coat to a coffee date.
The good news is that you can still find a lot of variation in basic colors. In the photo above, you can see how grey expresses itself in different materials. From top to bottom, we have cavalry twill, tropical wool, fine worsted, and linen. Cavalry twill does well with fall and winter sport coats in hopsack, serge, and tweed. On the other hand, tropical wool trousers should be paired with summer jackets in open wools, linen, and cotton.
You can see this solution implemented in the various outfits above. With lighter grey checked sport coats, Greg Lellouche and Andreas Weinås wear darker grey pants. With similar cream/ brown houndstooth sport coats, Andreas Weinås and Yukio Akamine went with either cream flannels or dark brown moleskins. When the jacket and pants are in the same color family, you have harmony. When you vary the shades and materials, you get contrast. These are the only two dimensions you need to make a sport coat and trouser combination work.
Now, even if you go with a full canvas construction, not all canvasses are alike. Some are stiffer with more horsehair, while others are softer. For a summer jacket I recommend a full canvas or at least a half canvas construction with as little interlining as possible. You want a lightweight, airy coat and so you should add as few additional layers to reduce insulation.
For summer coats, a pattern serves a functional as well as a stylistic purpose. Because of the open weave of the jacket, a pattern will help mask the transparency which would otherwise reveal the color differences underneath. Some great pattern options include checks, seersucker, or a go really bold and choose a rowing blazer. Windowpanes work especially well when they are bold and glen plaids are perfect. Avoid other stripes, including pinstripes, as well as solids because they look too much like suit jackets. Gagliardi opted for a glencheck inspired pattern that is ideal for a summer sport coat.
Unlike for a more muted winter wardrobe, your summer wardrobe is the perfect place to choose vivid hues of blue, green or red. Skip grey or dark navy and go with white, ivory, orange or yellow accents instead. Brown can work too. At the end of the day it all depends on the combination. The Gagliardi coat is a perfect example for summer colors. The base pattern consists of white and mid-blue, making it look light airy and summery. The orange overplaid makes it unique and interesting. Simply perfect.
Finding the right summer sport coat for you is easy if you pay attention to 8 key features: weight, weave, texture, lining, interlining, pattern, color, and cut. If you are into custom clothing, make sure to order your coats when it is still cold so they arrive before it is too late to wear them. Luckily, you can always rely on ready to wear and Gagliardi is specialized in spring summer menswear at an affordable price with Mediterranean flair. Click here to take a look at their collection.
Once again, great piece, and great timing for such advices. I was planning to order at least one bespoke sport coat for the summer and will keep every single bits of this article very preciously. Thanks a lot, Sven.
So then, how to buy a fall sportcoat in the right construction I think you have more wiggle room for this type of seasonal jacket. If you want to keep the jacket lighter and more breathable, then by all means, go with a half-lining build, and when it gets a little too chilly, you can layer up with a sweater.
Please note that the key point we want to get across is that sportcoats are downright useful this time of year. They can keep you warm and seamlessly take you from your walk to the office right into your first meeting of the day. Plus, a fine woolen jacket is just going to feel great to wear.
A: Not all things in menswear are clean-cut, and the difference between a suit jacket (sport coat) and a blazer is a prime example of this. Traditionally, a blazer meant a jacket of a solid color (usually navy or black) with gold or silver metal buttons, patch pockets and a softer construction.
Brian, great question. A lot of companies these days use the term sport coat and blazer interchangeably, causing a lot of the confusion between the two terms. However, traditionally, the the blazer and the sport coat had very distinct origins and characteristics. While blazers were defined by its preppier, nautical roots, the sport coat was a more rustic, hunting jacket. True to its outdoor functions the traditional sport coat was made of heavier fabrics such as tweed, had pockets with flaps, sometimes an upper ticket pocket and a generally softer shape than a suit jacket. Hope that clears things up a bit!
* When matching trousers, black should be reserved for only gray sport coats. After that, use your darker trousers such as browns, grays and navy for your professional wear and the lighter colors such as tan and pearl gray for your more social occasions.
* Sport coats have 2 or 3 buttons. Only button the Top button when there are 2 buttons, and button the Top 2 buttons on a 3-buttoned sport coat. When you button all the buttons, it tends to look too constricting. And please buy a size which can be buttoned.
Stock your closet with a selection of sports coats that are appropriate for different occasions. Choose a patterned jacket and a solid color and then pair them with different types of pants, such as cotton twill, polyester, wool, denim or corduroy to dress the jackets up or down. Match darker jackets and lighter pants, such as a velvet navy coat with light gray pants or a dark brown sports coat with light khaki pants. Not sure I know many men, however, who can pull off the Velvet navy coat! 59ce067264
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